Dust on My Feet: The Great Byzantine Cathedral of Istanbul

Hagia Sophia Cathedral at tulip time

For me, one of the most impressive buildings in the world is the great Hagia Sophia Cathedral, the Church of the Holy Wisdom, in the Turkish city of Istanbul. For almost 1500 years, this great domed Cathedral has stood in the heart of what was once Constantinople. Its great dome has stood a thousand years longer than that of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. It is the third church to be constructed on the site, the first dating from the 4th century and the second from the early 5th century.
During the Nika riots of 532, the 2nd Church of the Holy Wisdom was almost completely destroyed - just a few pieces of pediment remain. Much of Constantinople burned and around 30,000 rioters killed when the rebellion was suppressed by Belisarius, the Emperor Justinian's general.

A section of the pediment of the 5th century St. Sophia, destroyed during the Nika riots of 532

Shortly after the suppression of the riots, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I commissioned two architects, Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles to formulate plans for a new Cathedral, which was built in just 5 years and dedicated in 537. However, in 558 the main dome completely collapsed in an earthquake. It was subsequently realised that the original dome had been built far too flat. Isidore the younger, nephew of Isidore of Miletus, was called in by Emperor Justinian. This time lighter material was used and a ribbed dome, elevated by around 6.5 metres, was erected. Justinian also ordered 8 massive Corinthian columns to be brought from Baalbek in Lebanon as additional support. The Cathedral was re-consecrated in 562 and this is the amazing building that we see today. For over 900 years Hagia Sophia was the centre of Greek Orthodoxy, except for 57 years in the 13th century, after Constantinople was sacked by the Christian armies of the 4th Crusade, when it became a Roman Catholic Cathedral. In 1453, Constantinople was captured by the Ottoman Turks, and the Cathedral, with the addition of minarets, became the first Imperial mosque of the Ottomans.
In 1935, after the establishment of the Turkish Republic by Kemal Atatürk, this great Cathedral-cum-Mosque became a museum, and work began on the uncovering of the spectacular Byzantine mosaics which had been plastered over during the Ottoman rule.

The Deësis Mosaic & Byzantine arches on the upper level of Hagia Sophia

Over the years, I have visited this great building many times, and have always experienced a overwhelming sense of awe when I have passed through the Imperial Door into the main body of the Cathedral.

The Imperial Entrance to Hagia Sophia

On the granite step, each side of the entrance, are depressions, made over the centuries, I have been told, by the Varangians, the 'Anglo-Saxon axe-bearers', bodyguards of the Emperors, who stood here, Stepping through the door, into the gloom of the main body of the church beneath the great dome, is like stepping back in history, and is definitely awe-inspiring. Perhaps best described by Doreen Yarwood in The Architecture of Europe: 'The interior of S. Sophia is monumental; the architectural design is simple but the effect dynamic in its quality of light and open space. The central dome is 180 feet above ground, supported on gigantic pendentives which in turn stem from the four semi-circular arches and enormous, ground-standing piers.'

The interior of Hagia Sophia is a unique blend of Christian & Islamic iconograohy

On the main piers are circular panels with the names of Allah in Arabic, a reminder that this was, for many centuries, a Islamic place of worship. The interior of the great dome still retains, in gold-lettered archaic Arabic, the many names of Allah inscribed on the plaster which still covers the original Byzantine mosaic, probably of Christ Pantocrator. The very fine Byzantine mosaics in other areas of the building have had the covering plaster painstakingly removed, revealing the incredible workmanship of these ancient craftsmen.

Panels with names of Allah & a mosaic portrayal of the Virgin Mary with the infant Christ in one of the semi-domes.

In the middle of the Cathedral is the marble omphalos, the navel of the world, the spot where the Emperors of the Byzantine Empire were crowned. Also in this section of the Cathedral are two huge marble lustration urns from Bergama (ancient Pergamon), for the storage of anointing oils.

The omphalos, or navel of the earth - the spot where the Emperors of Byzantium were crowned.

One of the huge marble lustration urns from Bergama

The passage to the upper level is wide with rough cobbles, designed to stop horses hooves slipping as they transported dignitaries to the upper levels.

The passageway to the upper level of Hagia Sophia

It is on this upper level that some of the finest mosaics can be seen. These include the famous Deësis, the Comnenus and the Empress Zoë mosaics, and on each of the large triangular pendentives are seraphim, or archangels. Also on this upper level is a 19th century marker which is supposedly the site where the grave of the 41st Doge of Venice, Enrico, or Hendricus Dandolo who died in 1205, was originally located. The original grave was destroyed after the Ottoman invasion, and he remains the only person who was buried in Hagia Sophia. Enrico Dandolo was the blind and aged - reputedly around 97 - Doge of Venice who led the Venetian soldiers and sailors in the 4th Crusade. The aim of the 4th Crusade had originally been to attack Cairo, but due to the inability of the Crusaders to pay back money owing to Venice, the force first attacked Zara (modern Zadar) then, against Pope Innocent III wishes, besieged Constantinople in 1203. After the city fell the following year and an orgy of looting and killing followed. The result being a Catholic State was established that lasted until 1271. All part of the intrigue that makes this building so interesting.

The famous Comnenus mosaic in the upper level of Hagia Sophia

A seraph, or archangel on one of the pendentives in Hagia Sophia

Everything about this building is impressive. But it was on my last visit to Hagia Sophia, that it suddenly struck me, that people had been regularly worshipping under this massive dome for longer than the genus homo sapiens have lived in my native New Zealand. Definitely thought provoking.